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PATIOS, WALKWAYS & DRIVEWAYS

The three steps to get your project started:

MEASURE your project area.
For pavers, flagstone, and bricks, you will need to know square feet (length x width). For bulk materials – like base gravel and setting sand – and for concrete, you will need to know cubic feet (length x width x depth).

CHOOSE your materials.
How do you want it to look? How will it be used? Compare the cost, but also the suitability, durability, ease of maintenance and repair, of all the possible choices:

• EP Henry Pavers
• Brick Pavers
• Natural Stone
• Concrete
• Gravel

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Come see us for solutions, prices, the name of a qualified contractor, or Do-It-Yourself tips.

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WALLS & STEPS

The three steps to get your project started:

MEASURE your project area.
For walls, you will need to know square feet (length x width) of the face of the wall. For steps, you need to know the width of the steps, the height from base to top (the higher ground or the door sill), and the size of the landing (length x width). To be safe and comfortable, steps should be between 6 inches and 8 inches high, and every step in a set should be the same height (rise) and depth (run). Most steps are 12 to 14 inches deep.

CHOOSE your materials.
How do you want it to look? How will it be used? Compare the cost, but also the suitability, durability, ease of installation, maintenance, and repair, of all the possible choices:

• EP Henry Wall Blocks
• Natural Stacking Stone
• Masonry construction: a structure block or concrete, finished with brick, natural stone or manufactured stone veneer.
• Concrete

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Come see us for solutions, prices, the name of a qualified contractor, or Do-It-Yourself tips.

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LANDSCAPING WITH STONE

Natural Stone can be used to beautify your landscape as:

• Ground cover
• Driveways
• Shed foundations
• Borders and curbs
• Patios and Walkways (see: Projects: Patios and Walkways)
• Walls (see: Projects: Walls)

GROUND COVER

Decorative gravels and even sand can be used as alternatives to grass or mulch. Preparation of the area should include removal of organic material to prevent re-growth. If it is too much to dig up, and herbicides are inappropriate, try laying black plastic over the area for a week or two in hot weather. Weed-control fabric will help discourage establishment of airborne weeds, but be prepared to do a little weed control every year. Weeds can start in just the dust that lands with the seeds – that’s what they’re good at.

The three steps to get your project started:

MEASURE your project area.
For bulk materials you will need to know cubic feet (length x width x depth).

CHOOSE your materials.
How do you want it to look? How will it be used? Will there be foot traffic? Are there any drainage issues?

ESTIMATE
Come see us for solutions, prices, the name of a qualified contractor, or Do-It-Yourself tips.

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DRIVEWAYS

The three steps to get your project started:

MEASURE your project area.
For bulk materials you will need to know cubic feet (length x width x depth).

CHOOSE your materials.
How do you want it to look? How will it be used? Are you dressing up an old driveway, expanding for another vehicle, or starting new? Newer ground usually requires more depth, larger stone, and even stabilization fabric: it’s all about how it packs into the existing ground. Good grading, uniform compaction, and a substantial coat of clean gravel on top help prevent the splashing that creates potholes.

ESTIMATE
Come see us for solutions, prices, the name of a qualified contractor, or Do-It-Yourself tips.

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SHED FOUNDATIONS

If your shed has a built-in floor, all you need underneath is approximately four inches of gravel to promote drainage away from the wood frame

The three steps to get your project started:

MEASURE your project area.
For bulk materials you will need to know cubic feet (length x width x depth). Do you want to maintain a decorative border around the shed (a good way to protect the shed from rain dripping off the roof and splashing against the siding)

CHOOSE your materials.
How do you want it to look? How will it be used? Are you dressing up an old driveway, expanding for another vehicle, or starting new? Newer ground usually requires more depth, larger stone, and even stabilization fabric: it’s all about how it packs into the existing ground. Good grading, uniform compaction, and a substantial coat of clean gravel on top help prevent the splashing that creates potholes.

ESTIMATE
Come see us for solutions, prices, the name of a qualified contractor, or Do-It-Yourself tips.

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BORDERS AND CURBS

The three steps to get your project started:

MEASURE your project area.
For borders you need to measure the length of the border. If you are dividing two areas of different heights,

CHOOSE your materials.
A simple divider between a lawn and a bed can be a row of bricks or stones, partially buried for stability. To border a driveway, or landscape areas of differing heights (like a lawn and a sloping bed), you may need a concrete foundation for additional stability, or even a low retaining wall (see Walls and Steps)

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Come see us for solutions, prices, the name of a qualified contractor, or Do-It-Yourself tips.

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BUILDING WITH MASONRY

Masonry structures can be built to last for centuries, and many of the techniques and standards of building with masonry are centuries old. Masonry construction usually takes one of these forms:

• Building block
• Brick
• Stone veneer
• Stucco
• Concrete

 

BUILDING BLOCK

Some things to think about:

The ground moves and masonry doesn’t. A proper foundation is a must. For structural projects, from a front step to a new house, you must begin with footings below the frost line (30 inches in our area). Don’t assume that “hard ground” is good enough.
Reinforcing products and chemical additives can contribute to the strength of masonry work, but will not protect against the danger of damage due to improper preparation and technique. Reinforcing wire in concrete, for instance, doesn’t prevent cracks; it just holds the broken pieces together.

Some cracks can’t be prevented – only controlled. A “control” joint – a continuous interruption in the block pattern, filled with a special rubber material and finished with caulk – will give a long stretch of wall a place to move without ruining the surface or compromising the structural strength. If a masonry coating, like stucco or parge, spans a joint between dissimilar backing structures (e.g. a frame wall on top of a block foundation) a joint should be installed to allow movement without ugly cracks.

The water and the weather must be right. Cement is activated by water, and proper “hydration” is key to the strength of cement-based products like mortar. Too much water, or too little, can spoil your mix. Although complete hydration takes 28 days in almost all mixes, most of the strength is derived in the first day or two.

• If the temperature goes near freezing, or the materials you are working with are cold even when the air temperature is rising, hydration will be stopped or slowed enough to ruin mortar. If the temperature is expected to go below 40 degrees within 48 hours of your work, consider postponing the job, or ask us about cold-weather masonry products and practices.
• Hot weather is tricky too. You must protect your work from drying too fast when it is sunny, hot, or windy.
• Even in good weather conditions, you must make sure that drying time is right. Pre-wetting the block before you lay them in mortar can help prevent cracking from drying too quickly.

The three steps to get your project started:

MEASURE your project area.
For walls, you will need to know square feet (length x width) of the face of the wall. For steps, you need to know the width of the steps, the height from base to top (the higher ground or the door sill), and the size of the landing (length x width). To be safe and comfortable, steps should be between 6 inches and 8 inches high, and every step in a set should be the same height (rise) and depth (run). Most steps are 12 to 14 inches deep.

CHOOSE your materials.
How do you want it to look? How will it be used? Compare the cost, but also the suitability, durability, ease of installation, maintenance, and repair, of all the possible choices:
Masonry construction: a structure block or concrete, finished with brick, natural stone or manufactured stone veneer.
Concrete (see below)

ESTIMATE
Come see us for solutions, prices, the name of a qualified contractor, or Do-It-Yourself tips.

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BRICK

Some things to think about:

The ground moves and masonry doesn’t. A proper foundation is a must. For structural projects, from a front step to a new house, you must begin with footings below the frost line (30 inches in our area). Don’t assume that “hard ground” is good enough.
Reinforcing products and chemical additives can contribute to the strength of masonry work, but will not protect against the danger of damage due to improper preparation and technique. Reinforcing wire in concrete, for instance, doesn’t prevent cracks; it just holds the broken pieces together. Wall ties help stabilize a brick veneer vertically in front of a block wall; block reinforcement wire helps strengthen a block wall laterally… but there is no substitute for a structurally sound foundation.

Some cracks can’t be prevented – only controlled. A “control” joint – a continuous interruption in the brick pattern, finished with caulk – will give a long stretch of wall a place to move without ruining the surface or compromising the structural strength. If a masonry coating, like stucco or parge, spans a joint between dissimilar backing structures (e.g. a frame wall on top of a block foundation) a joint should be installed to allow movement without ugly cracks.

The water and the weather must be right. Cement is activated by water, and proper “hydration” is key to the strength of cement-based products. Too much water, or too little, can spoil your mix. Although complete hydration takes 28 days in almost all mixes, most of the strength is derived in the first day or two.

• If the temperature goes near freezing, or materials you are working with are cold even when the air temperature is rising, hydration will be stopped or slowed enough to ruin mortar, stucco, or concrete. If the temperature is expected to go below 40 degrees within 48 hours of your work, consider postponing the job, or ask us about cold-weather masonry products and practices.
• Hot weather is tricky too. You must protect your work from drying too fast when it is sunny, hot, or windy.
• Even in good weather conditions, you must make sure that drying time is right. Pre-wetting the bricks before you lay them in mortar can help prevent cracking from drying too quickly.

Moisture has to get out: Even the most weather-tight veneer can have moisture on the inside – because of humidity from the interior of the building or just from the back of the brick – and it must not be trapped. “Weep holes” in the bottom of the wall, and flashing below the weep holes to stop the downward movement of moisture, prevent the natural migration of water vapor from becoming a problem.

Making masonry match: There are literally thousands of styles of “red brick”, and changes in raw materials and processes used in manufacturing, as well as the effects of weathering, can make even a brick by the same name from the same manufacturer look different from year to year. And new mortar, with the color of the cement prominent, is a tricky match with old mortar which has been weathered so that the sand shows through.
If you need help matching, bring samples if you can, and make note of variations in colors in what you are trying to match. Pictures can help, but can play tricks depending on exposure and quality. Taking samples home, even laying up a test panel, is a great idea, and worth the time and money. Most of all, choose carefully and patiently, and don’t rely on someone saying “close enough”.

The three steps to get your project started:

MEASURE your project area.
For walls, you will need to know square feet (length x width) of the face of the wall. For steps, you need to know the width of the steps, the height from base to top (the higher ground or the door sill), and the size of the landing (length x width). To be safe and comfortable, steps should be between 6 inches and 8 inches high, and every step in a set should be the same height (rise) and depth (run). Most steps are 12 to 14 inches deep.

CHOOSE your materials.
How do you want it to look? How will it be used? Compare the cost, but also the suitability, durability, ease of installation, maintenance, and repair, of all the possible choices:
Masonry construction: a structure block or concrete, finished with brick, natural stone or manufactured stone veneer. Keep in mind that “thin veneer” can stick on the wall without structural support, but full-size brick are 3 inches thick, and the foundation must be wide enough to accommodate the brick as well as the block structure that continues upward behind the veneer.
“Thin Veneer” requires less structural preparation because it can stick on the wall. The colors and textures available, however, are very limited in comparison to full size brick. And special care must be taken to prepare for thin veneer placed over a frame-construction wall (see Stucco)

ESTIMATE
Come see us for solutions, prices, the name of a qualified contractor, or Do-It-Yourself tips.

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STONE VENEER

Some things to think about:

The secret to Thin Veneer is the preparation. See THIN STONE VENEER

The ground moves and masonry doesn’t. A proper foundation is a must. For structural projects, from a front step to a new house, you must begin with footings below the frost line (30 inches in our area). Don’t assume that “hard ground” is good enough.
Reinforcing products and chemical additives can contribute to the strength of masonry work, but will not protect against the danger of damage due to improper preparation and technique. Reinforcing wire in concrete, for instance, doesn’t prevent cracks; it just holds the broken pieces together. Wall ties help stabilize a stone veneer vertically in front of a block wall; block reinforcement wire helps strengthen a block wall laterally… but there is no substitute for a structurally sound foundation.

Some cracks can’t be prevented – only controlled. There is some debate about how to protect Thin veneer applications from cracking: create a “control” joint – a continuous interruption in the stone pattern, finished with caulk – as you would with stucco; or treat it like “unit Masonry” – bricks and blocks—and use control joints only in very large expanses of wall, as in commercial work. Because of the integrity of individual pieces, some experts are saying that control joints are unnecessary because expansion and contraction will be absorbed by many very small – almost invisible – cracks in the interface between the units and the mortar joints, and that proper preparation (see Stucco, below) will prevent damage to the structure.

The water and the weather must be right. Cement is activated by water, and proper “hydration” is key to the strength of cement-based products. Too much water, or too little, can spoil your mix. Although complete hydration takes 28 days in almost all mixes, most of the strength is derived in the first day or two.

• If the temperature goes near freezing, or the materials you are working with are cold even when the air temperature is rising, hydration will be stopped or slowed enough to ruin mortar, stucco, or concrete. If the temperature is expected to go below 40 degrees within 48 hours of your work, consider postponing the job, or ask us about cold-weather masonry products and practices.
• Hot weather is tricky too. You must protect your work from drying too fast when it is sunny, hot, or windy.
• Even in good weather conditions, you must make sure that drying time is right. Different densities of stone will absorb water differently, affecting drying time: wetting the stone before laying it in mortar can help prevent cracking from drying too quickly.

Making masonry match: Natural stone varies enormously from each quarried lot to the next. Although common stone veneers can be identified, the look of building stone is also greatly influenced by age, moisture content, and especially by the hand and eye of the mason. Many veneers are mixtures of two or more separately quarried varieties of stone, and even a single variety can be affected by which side of each piece is turned outward. New stone must be expertly blended to match the old. And new mortar, with the color of the cement prominent, is a tricky match with old mortar which has been weathered so that the sand shows through.

If you need help matching, bring samples if you can, and make note of variations in colors in what you are trying to match. Pictures can help, but can play tricks depending on exposure and quality. Taking samples home, even laying up a test panel, is a great idea, and worth the time and money. Most of all, choose carefully and patiently, and don’t rely on someone saying “close enough”.

The three steps to get your project started:

MEASURE your project area.
For walls, you will need to know square feet (length x width) of the face of the wall. For steps, you need to know the width of the steps, the height from base to top (the higher ground or the door sill), and the size of the landing (length x width). To be safe and comfortable, steps should be between 6 inches and 8 inches high, and every step in a set should be the same height (rise) and depth (run). Most steps are 12 to 14 inches deep.

CHOOSE your materials.
How do you want it to look? How will it be used? Compare the cost, but also the suitability, durability, ease of installation, maintenance, and repair, of all the possible choices:
Masonry construction: a structure block or concrete, finished natural stone or manufactured stone veneer. Keep in mind that “thin veneer” can stick on the wall without structural support, but full-size stone veneer can be 3 to 8 inches thick, and the foundation must be wide enough to accommodate the stone as well as the block structure that continues upward behind the veneer.
“Thin Veneer” requires less structural preparation because it can stick on the wall. Special care must be taken to prepare for thin veneer placed over a frame-construction wall (see Stucco)

ESTIMATE
Come see us for solutions, prices, the name of a qualified contractor, or Do-It-Yourself tips.

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STUCCO

Some things to think about:

The ground moves and masonry doesn’t. A proper foundation is a must. For structural projects, from a front step to a new house, you must begin with footings below the frost line (30 inches in our area). Don’t assume that “hard ground” is good enough.
Metal Lath is almost always required when installing a stucco finish. Although stucco will adhere to block or poured concrete, it will require many coats to prevent “shadowing” of the block joints underneath, and will transmit cracks in the subsurface, even fine cracks that aren’t noticeable in the unfinished structure. If the subsurface isn’t new, it may not be clean enough to bond properly. When in doubt, put up the lath.
Chemical additives and bonding agents can contribute to the strength of masonry work, but will not protect against the danger of damage due to improper preparation and technique.

Moisture: KEEP OUT! – Stucco, and the cement coat used as a base for thin veneer, must be installed over a proper base of many layers.

1. Double, Grade D moisture barrier: not just a layer of tar paper, but a double layer of paper rated to resist water for 60 minutes, or one layer of Grade D and a moisture-control product specifically designed to separate the paper from the stucco with a drainage space designed to allow moisture to move behind the stucco and release it safely.
2. Weep screed: a special strip, similar to drip-edge for a roof but with a wide leg and a sloped flange, which prevents “wicking” of moisture from the bottom edge of a stucco application back into the structure behind. NEVER apply stucco so as to contact the ground, even over masonry: capillary action will draw moisture up and take it places you won’t se until the damage is done.
3. Lath: almost always a must, and always the safe way to go. Be sure that all borders – around windows, doors, and other openings, the edge that meets the material above (soffits, siding, etc.) – a edged with “casing bead”, allowing a clean edge and a place to put caulk between the stucco and other materials. A “control” joint – a continuous interruption in the stucco, beginning with expansion strips in the lath, and finished with caulk – will give a long stretch of wall a place to move without cracking. If you are spanning a joint between dissimilar backing structures (e.g. a frame wall on top of a block foundation), a joint should be installed to allow movement without ugly cracks. Vertical corners are usually reinforced with corner bead.
4. Brown, Scratch, Finish coats: the first layer “fills” the lath, the second is “scratched” to make sure the next coat holds (so is the first if it is at all smooth), finish will be the texture and color you want. A thick stucco application can take the rain, even absorb it, and release it when the weather changes. But put a single coat on too thick and shrinkage cracks will appear, and will not go away!
   The “finish” in a thin veneer application is, of course, the stone or brick. The rules
   above still apply to ensure enough strength to hold the veneer, and to prevent water from sneaking behind the finish.

The water and the weather must be right. Cement is activated by water, and proper “hydration” is key to the strength of cement-based products. Too much water, or too little, can spoil your mix. Although complete hydration takes 28 days in almost all mixes, most of the strength is derived in the first day or two.

• If the temperature goes near freezing, or the materials you are working with are cold even when the air temperature is rising, hydration will be stopped or slowed enough to ruin stucco. If the temperature is expected to go below 40 degrees within 48 hours of your work, consider postponing the job, or ask us about cold-weather masonry products and practices.
• Hot weather is tricky too. You must protect your work from drying too fast when it is sunny, hot, or windy.
• Even in good weather conditions, you must make sure that drying time is right. Pre-wetting the base coat before applying stucco, can help prevent cracking from drying too quickly.

Making masonry match: Just like matching paint, matching stucco colors from swatches is risky. Consider buying a bag and putting up a sample (and make sure it is dry before you decide) in order to confirm the match. Even if you know the manufacturer and the color name, variation may occur between batches, or because of weathering of the old material you are matching.

The three steps to get your project started:

MEASURE your project area.
For walls, you will need to know square feet (length x width) of the face of the wall. Also measure windows and doors, and the edges where you’ll meet other materials (siding, soffits), and vertical corners.

CHOOSE your materials.
How do you want it to look? How will it be used? Compare the cost, but also the suitability, durability, ease of installation, maintenance, and repair, of all the possible choices. Do you need to match existing work?

ESTIMATE
Come see us for solutions, prices, the name of a qualified contractor, or Do-It-Yourself tips. Look carefully, take pictures, bring samples of the old material, if you are matching, and of the wall you will be covering.

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CONCRETE

Some things to think about:

The ground moves and masonry doesn’t. A proper foundation is a must. For surface projects, like poured concrete walkways, you should start with a packed base of the proper material. For structural projects, from a front step to a new house, you must begin with footings below the frost line (30 inches in our area). Don’t assume that “hard ground” is good enough.
Reinforcing products and chemical additives can contribute to the strength of masonry work, but will not protect against the danger of damage due to improper preparation and technique. Reinforcing wire in concrete, for instance, doesn’t prevent cracks; it just holds the broken pieces together.

Some cracks can’t be prevented – only controlled. Flat slabs in driveways, walkways, and patios will move when the ground freezes and thaws. “Control” joints – grooves placed in the surface of the concrete with a steel or bronze “groover” or “jointer” – give the concrete a place to crack under the pressure of movement without ruining the surface.

The water and the weather must be right. Cement is activated by water, and proper “hydration” is key to the strength of cement-based products. Too much water, or too little, can spoil your mix. Although complete hydration takes 28 days in almost all mixes, most of the strength is derived in the first day or two.

• If the temperature goes near freezing, or the ground is cold even when the air temperature is rising, hydration will be stopped or slowed enough to ruin mortar, stucco, or concrete. If the temperature is expected to go below 40 degrees within 48 hours of your work, consider postponing the job, or ask us about cold-weather masonry products and practices.
• Hot weather is tricky too. You must protect your work from drying too fast when it is sunny, hot, or windy.
• Even in good weather conditions, you must make sure that drying time is right.

Making masonry match: As concrete dries, it turns bright white. As it cures in the first month, the color begins to turn toward the buff/grey color of older concrete. Any attempt to color the new to look like the old will likely be frustrating, since it is nearly impossible to predict the result, and since the color will change with drying, curing, and aging.

The three steps to get your project started:

MEASURE your project area.
For slabs, you will need to know square feet (length x width) of the surface, and the thickness desired. For steps, you need to know the width of the steps, the height from base to top (the higher ground or the door sill), and the size of the landing (length x width). To be safe and comfortable, steps should be between 6 inches and 8 inches high, and every step in a set should be the same height (rise) and depth (run). Most steps are 12 to 14 inches deep.

CHOOSE your materials.
Concrete can be stamped and colored to mimic stone or brick or just to add visual interest. Another popular way to dress up a slab or walkway is “exposed aggregate”, in which decorative gravel is used in the mix, and the finishing process includes washing away the cement from the surface to expose the stone. Both of these alternatives are specialized techniques best entrusted to an experienced contractor.

ESTIMATE
Come see us for solutions, prices, the name of a qualified contractor, or Do-It-Yourself tips.

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Thin Stone Veneer

The revolution in Thin Veneers has made the beauty of stone an available option in almost any project. It requires less in the way of structural support than traditional building stone and brick. But proper preparation is essential.

What you need to know: Thin Veneer has become very popular: known as “Stick-on” or “Lick and Stick” stone, it has appeared on new houses and in renovations in every neighborhood. But a minor industry has sprung up fixing installations in which improper preparation resulted in moisture getting underneath, causing sometimes extensive damage to the structure beneath.

Moisture: KEEP OUT! – The cement coat used as a base for thin veneer must be installed over a proper base of many layers.

1. Double, Grade D moisture barrier: not just a layer of tar paper, but a double layer of paper rated to resist water for 60 minutes, or one layer of Grade D and a moisture-control product specifically designed to separate the paper from the stucco with a drainage space, to allow moisture to move behind the stucco and release it safely.
2. Weep screed: a special strip, similar to drip-edge for a roof but with a wide leg and a sloped flange, which prevents “wicking” of moisture from the bottom edge of a cement coat back into the structure behind. NEVER apply your cement coat so as to contact the ground, even over masonry: capillary action will draw moisture up and take it places you won’t see until the damage is done.
3. Lath: almost always a must, and always the safe way to go. Be sure that all borders – around windows, doors, and other openings, and any edge that meets the other material (soffits, siding, etc.) – are finished with “casing bead”, allowing a clean edge and a place to put caulk between the stucco and other materials. There is some debate about how to protect Thin veneer applications from cracking: create a “control” joint – a continuous interruption in the stone pattern, finished with caulk – as you would with stucco, or treat it like “unit Masonry” – bricks and blocks—and use control joints only in very large expanses of wall, such as commercial work. Because of the integrity of individual pieces, some experts are saying that control joints are unnecessary because expansion and contraction will be absorbed by many very small – almost invisible – cracks in the interface between the units and the mortar joints, and that proper preparation (see Stucco, below) will prevent damage to the structure.
4. Brown, Scratch, and Finish coats: the first layer “fills” the lath, the second is “scratched” to make sure the next coat holds (so is the first if it is at all smooth). A thick stucco application, in combination with the veneer, can take the rain, even absorb it, and release it when the weather changes. But put a single coat on too thick and shrinkage cracks will appear, compromising the strength of the job. The “finish”, of course, is the Thin Veneer.
   

The three steps to get your project started:

MEASURE your project area.
For walls, you will need to know square feet (length x width) of the face of the wall. Also measure windows and doors, the edges where you’ll meet other materials (siding, soffits), and vertical corners.

CHOOSE your materials.
The majority of Thin Veneer applications are done with manufactured stone – concrete molded and colored to look like stone. There are many manufacturers, but most offer the same few basic looks that have to do with the shapes: “ledge stone” (strips that mimic stacked stone), “mosaic” (irregular shapes with the large faces turned outward), “cut” or “ashlar” (squares and rectangles).

Colors vary much more widely, and matching one manufacturer’s stone with another will be very difficult.

Natural Thin Stone Veneers are also available. They are hard to distinguish from traditional, full-size veneer, especially if corner pieces are available, and they tend to be more expensive than manufactured stone.

ESTIMATE
Come see us for solutions, prices, the name of a qualified contractor, or Do-It-Yourself tips.

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MASONRY REPAIRS AND RESTORATION

Use the right mix: Patching, resurfacing, and replacing masonry are different tasks which require the right mix. Mortar (cement, lime, and sand) and Concrete (cement, sand, and stone) are the basic mixes for building, not repair and restoration. There are specialized mixes for:

• Resurfacing rough, damaged concrete
• Leveling between two uneven concrete surfaces, from a feather edge to and inch or two
• Leveling an uneven concrete floor before covering with wood, carpet, etc.
• Repointing – repairing the joints – in brick
• Waterproofing and damp-proofing
• Fireplaces

Cracks come back. If you want to repair cracks in masonry and concrete, remember that, if you don’t fix the condition that caused the cracks, they will show through or break your repair. Movement, from settling or expansion caused by temperature changes, is often the culprit you can’t stop without demolition and rebuilding. In those cases, consider flexible caulk and/or special coatings.

Making masonry match: There are literally thousands of styles of “red brick”, and just as many colors of Thin Veneer stone. Changes in raw materials and processes used in manufacturing, as well as the effects of weathering, can make even a brick or stone veneer by the same name from the same manufacturer look different from run to run. Similarly, natural stone varies continually as it is quarried; the look of building stone is also greatly influenced by the hand and eye of the mason. And new mortar, with the color of the cement prominent, is a tricky match with old mortar which has been weathered so that the sand shows through.

If you need help matching, bring samples if you can, and make note of variations in colors in what you are trying to match. Pictures can help, but can play tricks depending on exposure and quality. Taking samples home, even laying up a test panel, is a great idea, and worth the time and money. Most of all, choose carefully and patiently, and don’t rely on someone saying “close enough”.

Keep in mind that matching masonry is no easier that matching paint, and that the only way to be ensure that new work does not stand out is to redo the entire job with new, which may not be practical or within your budget. If a “good” match is not good enough, be prepared to find an alternative – go for contrast, or “set off” the new so that it does not need to match exactly.

Respect the old. When repairing or “updating” existing masonry, take a moment to consider how old it is and how it has held up over the years. Old bricks and building stone (especially local “Jersey Sandstone”) are soft but have survived for hundreds of years, largely due to the “old fashioned” materials and techniques used to install them.

• Modern mortars are too hard for repointing bricks in 19th century and older structures, and can actually aggravate the damage. Ask about Lime mortar, and proper techniques.
• A cement coat over an old stone basement wall can look great, but the soft surface of the stone, and/or the moisture that passes through the wall (by design), may weaken the bond and make the new coat fall off. You might need metal lath, alternate techniques or materials, or even more extensive changes to covert an old “cellar” into a more modern basement.

Water is getting in… somewhere! Although the right sealer can add to the water resistance of a masonry wall, water infiltration most often occurs through cracks and at the borders: where stucco meets trim, or where a chimney passes through a roof. One frequent culprit in chimneys is the “wash” of mortar on top of the brick or block, surrounding the orange terra-cotta flue. This mortar often cracks from the movement of the warming and cooling of the flue; water gets in, and leaks out wherever it can. If you have a leak, look carefully for the source, and always be suspicious that it is worse than it first appears: search thoroughly for hidden damage!
Damp-proofing a basement starts with proper drainage (check where your downspouts send that water). New construction should include perimeter drains that collect groundwater and get rid of it, and one of many modern water barrier systems that put a membrane between the ground and the basement… much more effective than the usual “tar” foundation coating. Existing basements can be retrofitted with drainage, patched where water flows, and sealed from the inside with cement-based waterproofing that becomes an integral part of the wall.

Old bricks need love too. Modern mortars are too hard for repointing bricks in 19th century structures, and can actually aggravate the damage. Ask about Lime mortar, and proper techniques.
Watch the Ice… melter! Plain rock salt can ruin concrete and masonry, not because of a chemical reaction, but because it allows re-freezing at too high a temperature. The moisture that soaks in and then turns back to ice is what makes masonry explode! Look for an ice melting mix that works to a lower temperature.

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FIREPLACES & CHIMNEYS

A real masonry fireplace can be a beautiful focal point in any room of the house. Modern concerns about energy efficiency can be addressed by bringing combustion air directly to the fire from outdoors, and by isolating the thermal mass from outdoor cold with insulation. Building a fireplace that draws properly is a job for an experienced mason.
If you have a fireplace that doesn’t work properly – smoke comes back in the room – your chimney may be:

• Blocked by bird or animal nests, or debris from damage or deterioration of the chimney itself.
• Too short. The rule is that the chimney should be three feet higher than anything within ten feet.
• Dwarfed by trees: even farther away than ten feet, the large canopy of a tree can disrupt air flow and cause a downdraft, especially in windy conditions.

A chimney cap might help; you might need to add height to your existing chimney; or you may have to have an expert – a chimney sweep or a mason – evaluate the fireplace for proper design and construction.

Outdoor fireplaces and fire pits are increasingly popular, and can be as simple or as ornate as you choose. Ready-made kits help make it simple!

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MASONRY CLEANING & SEALING

The four steps to get your project started:

TRY simple things first. Rinse and gently scrub with plain water first. Then try non-abrasive household cleaners. If you’re pretty sure the dirt is mold or moss, kill it with bleach, then clean it.

IDENTIFY the dirt. Is It…

• Mortar from installation (and, if so, how old is it)? Get a sample (or a picture) of the material and the stuff you want to remove. If it is very dry (a few weeks old, or more) and fairly thick, you may be able to knock it off with a stiff brush. Try vinegar and water, and note what happens. Be careful not to smear the stain around. Acid might be the answer, but NOT for some bricks, and NOT for many kinds of stone.
• A white film that appears in the first few months after installation, seems to disappear in the wet, and shows again as soon as it dries? That’s efflorescence, salts from the masonry itself which are carried to the surface by moisture and deposited during evaporation. Special cleaners can help.
• Rust, rubber, grease or oil. Try a little dish detergent, and note what happens. Special cleaners can help.

VISIT us to talk about possible solutions.
Then…
TEST a small area that is relatively hidden from view.

The right sealer will help beautify and protect any masonry job, primarily by increasing resistance to water and the dirt and stains water brings in during natural absorption. Keeping water out is good, but be careful not to trap it: in most cases you should use a breathable sealer that allows vapor transmission. Even humidity from the indoors can damage masonry if it gets trapped on the outside surface.

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